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S3 Turbo Engine stops

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I cleaned them out as best I could with carby cleaner and compressed air but the idle circuit appears to be blocked.

If I can be bothered working on it again I'll get them ultrasonically cleaned ( again ) and replace the ignition with the hall effect one while the carbies are off.

The one thing I didn't think of when I replaced everything before was the steel pipe going from the filter to the engine.

That will be replaced with a hose this time.

It probably needs to run on LPG if it's not being driven all the time.


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On 22/12/2018 at 17:53, krytensmeghead said:

I thought it might help if this wasn't in the carbies




Gosh. With the acceleration pumps blocked that way she must have been a terrible stumble to drive... good that you are getting to it. 


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The idle galleries are blocked. There is no difference between fully open and fully closed on the idle adjustment after disassembly and cleaning with carby cleaner and compressed air so they're disassembled again and need to be ultrasonically cleaned.
The only thing I don't know how to get out is the inner shaft seals.

Would these be ok going through the ultrasonic cleaner ?

It's one of these

I think he's using non caustic degreaser or some sort of non foaming detergent.

The bearings are out.

Also need to do something about the butterfly screws. Looks like they're single use only but may be able to cut the end off that looks like a helicoil and use loctite.

Really need to know about the seals going through the cleaning process. I suspect I won't be able to get them out without damaging them, or get new ones quickly, or get the new ones in.

I don't know if there is a more appropriate place to ask this as I'm trying to get this done with the limited time I have off but the carby experts are also on holidays.




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Finally got the Esprit running again after being off the road for about a year.

The last things I did were to replace the coil with a non ballasted 12v  3ohm as suggested by the mechanic that sold me the new Lumenition setup.

It still died after about 1/2 an hour driving and the box that the coil is in was hot to touch.

I cut a hole in the bottom of the box and a slot in the side near the top with a small plate above it so water wouldn't go in there.

It started running smoothly but then was running a bit rough after about 5 minutes driving but didn't stall again and I was able to make it back home after driving for a longer time than before.

I let the engine idle and removed ignition leads one at a time, stopping the engine and replacing the lead.

The engine didn't change when I removed no.3 lead but ran worse when I removed others so it appeared no.3 cylinder wasn't firing.

I used long nose pliers to close the connector in the leads and they felt more of a solid connection on the plugs.

Now it runs smoothly all the time.

These are new leads I bought when I had fuel / carby issues and didn't know if the ignition was a factor at the time.

During all this I found out there's a thing called a "Split Tray Tow Truck" that can get under the car without wrecking the front spoiler.


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