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Just waiting at a local well renowned car audio specialist in Leicester 

they have installed a pioneer headunit I had sold off the rubbish Clarion and gone with Apple CarPlay  unit.

they have tried to see why the sub and amp have never worked ? They think the rca cable is ok but now think the sub or amp are defunct ? 

They are adding some sound deading into door to help improve the stock OEM speakers but am I better asking to install a brand new sub or amp ? Or both ? 

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I think it would depend on your personal preference.  I'm normally care a lot about good quality sound and have a goodish hifi at home.   But in the Evora there is so much noise from the engine, tyres, wind etc ...  I don't think a high quality sound would make much difference.  So for me the stock speakers give a good enough sound for me, (I'm not convinced my sub is working either).  So for my preference I'd probably just take the sub and amp out if they are not working and save a bit of weight.  But there are many others here that say the sound quality is terrible, so adding a working subwoofer and freeing up the door speakers from having to produce the deep bass can only help increase the quality?

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I am still at car audio place and they have encounter another issue they can’t get rear camera to work ! Oh joy ? 

The sub and amp I’d get working in my opinion as it helps overall sound quality ? 

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Update

the shop refitted new camera they couldn’t explain it but camera that was factory installed just wouldn’t work so they replaced it and charged me £17 extra ! 

The pioneer Avh z 3100 has lifted the sound quality and levels significantly over Clarion,  apple car works a treat !

will sort out the sub/amp next few weeks the shop wants to look it up to double check the issues ? 

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After conservation with my son we think we can sort the sub / amp issues but need some guidance please 

to access the rear enclosure we need to remove drivers seat ! How easy any step guide to this ?

to get into the rear enclosure any hints guidance ?

we are both novices but I hope to save a couple hundred quid as I suspect that labour charges from car audio shop would make ? We can also shop /source a cost effective replacement rather than paying retail full prices ? 

Thanks in anticipation 

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removing the drivers seat is easy. There are 4 bolts to remove and then unplug the wiring for heated seats and seat belt warning.

 

That's it. However DO NOT start the engine with the seatbelt warning light disconnected. I haven't had it, but I believe the warning system will throw a wobbly and need an expensive Lotus dealer reset if it doesn't see the seat belt warning light connected.

 

Removing all the rear enclosure shenanigans is likely to be the time waster rather than just removing the drivers seat.

 

 

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Cheers Bruss

no heated seats so just the wiring for seat belt is that just unhooking the connector or do I need to remove any fuses ? 

Little worries about the rear enclosure panel removal do I need special tool or will gentle effort to prize it away will be sufficient ?  

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seat connector just unplug.

 

Rear trim panel. First remove the rear seat and ALL the trim panels associated before you get to the trim panel you actually want to remove.  

6880654721_0f3242b1ea_b.jpg

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Just a thought.

Do you actually have a sub woofer fitted?  Not all cars did.

Also, if you have one fitted check that the cables at the front end are connected to the HU.  You can test by connecting a sub cable to either of the known working outputs- eg connect to a front speaker output and see if any sound is heard from the sub.

 

 

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Cheers

looks like a need for a very dry day as I haven’t a garage ? 

I reckon to give myself about an hour to get to the sub/amp then after finding out what’s not working trying to get replacement ASAP ? 

My son reckons it will be amp as there’s little to go wrong with sub unless somehow it’s been blown ? I think I will be very unlucky to find both have to be replaced ?  

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3 hours ago, Bruss said:

Just a thought.

Do you actually have a sub woofer fitted?  Not all cars did.

Also, if you have one fitted check that the cables at the front end are connected to the HU.  You can test by connecting a sub cable to either of the known working outputs- eg connect to a front speaker output and see if any sound is heard from the sub.

 

 

Double checked this afternoon and we can see a sub in the rear space , my son read up some forums and apparently the sub to amp wiring lotus used was a source of the problem.

we have some of the cable spare so fingers crossed it will be a simple re-wiring solution ? He also says it could be amp fuse but we checked main fuse board they all seemed fine but this was a visual check not sure if there’s more in depth fuse check using a meter ? 

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Cdm2018, the amp fuse is in the rear fusebox, R17 ( 20A  Amplifier).  Also, if you have the stock Alpine PDA T200 amp, there should be a fuse on the amp itself.

 

amp fuse location.jpg

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1 hour ago, 2011 Chrome Orange said:

Cdm2018, the amp fuse is in the rear fusebox, R17 ( 20A  Amplifier).  Also, if you have the stock Alpine PDA T200 amp, there should be a fuse on the amp itself.

 

amp fuse location.jpg

Thanks chrome 

we will check fuse box again to be sure and then the actual fuse on the amp 

determined to get the sub/amp working will give the car a decent sonic lift and I think it will bring out the best in the pioneer HU 

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Also, you definitely don't need to remove the drivers seat to get it the sub / amp. Had no problems accessing mine with the seat in place. 

 

 

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8 hours ago, DBG said:

Also, you definitely don't need to remove the drivers seat to get it the sub / amp. Had no problems accessing mine with the seat in place. 

 

 

Thanks with the seat out you have more space but my son is young and fit so can bend his body around ! He worked out how to get the rear seats and headrest out so it’s just trim panels and I think he purchased some trim tools 

he will try to do it this weekend on his own as I am away and not using the Evora so he got all the time ! 

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IN BETWEEN torrential downpours my son this weekend finally got to source of the issues !

firstly how on earth does lotus in the factory wire the car ? The live wire from the ignition to the sub was completely wired incorrectly

my son had spend nearly 5 hours trying to trace the fault he thought it was a break but after tests he found the wiring faults.

he tested the sub with his own amp and it’s works but he said sound was so poor it wasn’t worth puttting back so going to install new alpine sub 

the amp we going to replace if the new sub will benefit which looks increasingly likely?

all in all if I took this sub/amp to my audio shop it would have cost me several hundred pounds in labour and replacement equipment 

the car is still in pieces and we have to wait to middle of week to get all the parts but today my son will spend next couple of hours installing the wiring feeds in preparation of the new sub/amp 

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Finally my son finished the installation of new vibe amp and alpine sub ! 

Only tested the settings for a short time but vast improvement over the Clarion HU and oem sub/amp (that never worked ) 

the wiring was re done and made tidy 

had some trouble fitting the alpine sub to the original housing but generous use of new screw settings and dynamat made it fit!

over the next few days I will try and get settings sorted but the final cost £800 however my son saved me at least further £300 in labour and maybe £80-£100 in not paying full retail prices for the sub& amp.

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When is your son next free?   Can I book my car in for him to take a look please?   😀

If you don't mind, can you add a bit more detail on what was wrong with the sub and amp please?

Taking a look at why my sub is not working has been on my to do list for ages.

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Funnily enough the sub in my old Evora S was pants, it did work...just but the 400 is much better although still not perfect but good enough for me ;) 

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2 hours ago, electro_boy said:

When is your son next free?   Can I book my car in for him to take a look please?   😀

If you don't mind, can you add a bit more detail on what was wrong with the sub and amp please?

Taking a look at why my sub is not working has been on my to do list for ages.

Lol

yes he did a great job he even got a bloody nose trying to remove the rear panel as he didn’t remove the drivers seat so he had to contort himself into some strange shapes only a young person can do ! 

The issue he discovered with the sub/amp was the live feed from the ignition was not connected. In addition the sub was not wired correctly all these were factory issues so was disappointed to see this quality of work ? 

The hard work was getting all the rear panels and seats etc out before preparing the new wiring.

to be honest he convinced the sub sound can still be improved by making a mdf base for sub housing which is plastic and not acoustically sympathic.

he going to do the above later this month when I am away in Paris so hopefully when I return the car is sorted 

I tweaked with settings today and got them to my taste however when he does the above it will be just right. 

We also used a few sheets of dynamat which improved sound as well 

i have now an alpine amp spare also the sub but I don’t it’s worth using the sub it’s so poor!

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