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82 Turbo rear brakes - HELP!! - Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Hubs/Steering/Geo - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
madmax

82 Turbo rear brakes - HELP!!

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Hello again

Im trying to replace rear pads on Inboard discs and although I’ve successfully removed two 13mm head bolts from the Caliper and spilt it sonit feels loose, there isn’t enough clearance on the rear chassis tube to withdraw the Caliper back and off. 

It all wiggles round but the pads won’t cone out - nowhere near. 

LEW suggest drive shafts need to be removed but surely not??

i have learned that the pistons won’t just push back and this must be a job many people have done but there’s little available detail to be found and the workshops manual assumes I know rather more than I do. 

Any help gratefully received

Thanks

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Strange, there should be enough room to wiggle them out....   (there is on my 84 model, which should be the same)

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sorry this is not much help but I know you can do it without removing the discs as I did it a couple of years ago on my brothers S2. I remember having the same problem of hitting the tubes but I think if you take the sliding pins off the calliper moves and the pads will come out.

good luck

Christian

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Thanks Pete

i have seen that but was concerned that it suggested the drive shafts neednto be removed to change pads, something I couldn’t quite believe, even on a Lotus!

It would seem beyond ridiculous that this level of dismantling is required for something that should take twenty minutes. 

I found the article useful, particularly regarding the ratchet mechanism in the Caliper for auto adjustment and it was this that gave me the confidence to approach the task. 

However, I’m not up to dismantling a whole quarter of the drive train so may have to entrust it to a specialist - shame as I’ve just removed and replaced an entire manifold system which was a mammoth job in its own right and thought that whilst I was under there is just nip some new pads in - I should know better!!

Thanks again

Simon

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I may try next time I’m underneath. It’s a standard system as far as I can tell but the piston is right out so there’s no wriggle room to speak of and I’ve heard the pistons don’t just push back as normal as they’re on some kind of self adjusting ratchet. 

Mill stick with it as I’ve done with my manifold which is another pain in the **$$ job!

Thanks again

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Extract from the service manual.

 

JB. 2 - REAR BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
Minimum pad thickness = 3mm
1 . Remove the two self locking screws securing the caliper body to the two
guide pins, whilst holding the guide pins stationary with a spanner to
prevent damage to their dust covers.
2. Remove the caliper body and support to avoid straining the flexible hose.
Remove the pads and clean the pad abutment areas taking care not to
damage the guide pin or piston dust cover.
3. Before fitting new pads, the piston must be pushed back into the
caliper and the handbrake auto-adjust mechanism reset. Fit a
image.png.9cd3f8226b7be63eb363ac4489375dc2.png
screwdriver against the piston and turn the piston 45 degrees to disengage
the adjuster ratchet. Press back the piston (take care that the fluid
reservoir does not overflow), and then turn the piston back 45 degrees to
re-engage the ratchet.


Page 4 SECTION JB
4. Fit new pads and damper spring into the caliper bracket, and refit
the caliper body, alighing the slot in the piston with the lug on the
brake pad backplate.
5. Fit new self locking bolts to secure the caliper body to the guide
pins. Fit the top bolt first, then compress the pad damper spring
and fit the lower bolt. Torque tighten both bolts to 3.2 - 3.6
kgf.m. (23-26 Ibf.ft.).
6 . Operate the footbrake several times to bring the pads to their correct
working position and to take up the handbrake adjustment.
CAUTION: The brakes will not work at full efficiency until the new brake
pads have bedded-in. If, initially, the brakes are used too heavily, the
surface of the pads will burn and irregular braking result. Use the brakes
gently for the first few miles and gradually build up brake effort.

:) 

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Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. 

Simon

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Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. 

Simon

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Ok chaps

somehow managed to free the Caliper and remove the pads which is real progress but the piston on the nearside Caliper is out about 2cm. It is relatively shiny in its length but at the pad abutment end it’s just rust coloured with a large slot in it. 

This I presume is the slot used to turn the piston in an attempt to free a self adjusting ratchet. 

With molegrips providing a gentle hold of this rusty end of the piston, the piston actually turns surprisingly freely with just a bit of resistance. 

I haven’t been able to push the piston back yet. 

Plan is to slacken off bleed screw and perhaps use a clamp to push it back if I’m able to align it correctly. 

Any further advice would be great. The manual speaks about a damper spring but I don’t know where that should be. On disassembly there doesn’t appear to be any spring   

Thanks again

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Is this the 82 turbo or the 88 car, I ask because the rear calipers are different?

On the 82 you turn the piston through 90 degrees the push it back in & on the 88 it screws back in. :thumbup:

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Thanks

Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs.  The piston turns reasonably well although I’ve not tried to push it back yet once turned. 

Its quite badly pitted on its surface but I don’t know how much of a job they are to replace. SJ appear to have the pistons for about forty quid each but goodness knows what might be involved replacing them. 

Hooefully it will push back if I can align it all properly and let some fluid out of the bleed screw. 

These dark nights are made for stuff like this. 

Simon 

 

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2 hours ago, madmax said:

Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs. 

Yeah, I should have read the thread subject. :wallbash:

www.classicarautomotive.co.uk will recon the caliper for you if it's too far gone for you to fix. Good luck. :thumbup:

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If the piston is rusty it will almost certainly leak fluid past the seal if you push it back in. I would look at replacing it. 

As for the damper spring, I think its these - https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ079J0015.htm they fit at the top of the pads.

:) 

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@madmax Simple swap to replace the piston if you need to. Take old one out, put new one in! Just make sure the ratchet mechanism is in the right place and the bleed nipple is removed.

PS the drive shaft removal in the guide was for replacing discs, not the pads. That would have been ridiculous and even beyond Lotus lunacy!

Pete

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