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Got it back up home now.  Clean and a quick polish - scrubs up ok. The interior isn’t great and will need a clean and some new carpets

Well my winter project arrived late last night.  Shes tucked up in Nobbys barn as 1/ I have no space and 2/ I hadn’t told the missus. had a brief looksee on the way to work - as th

Mot passed - car back on the drive.  Few things to sort and she’s ready for the swimming runs

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blind purchase that ended up been a cracker, just shows that there are still some nice bargains still to be found in the classic car market :)

Really nice to see underneath and not have to play spot the rot   :thumbup:

Look forward to the progress on this one barry,   sand down those window frames and put a fresh coat of satin black,  some metal polish on the alloy trim, coat of wax on the body and i reckon you are good to go looking at the rest of it,   be kind to her and maybe treat her to a full stainless exhaust system !

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Window frames just need a rub down and repaint - they are good.

no drop whatsoever on the doors - so that’s nice.

been down the farm this morning and have ripped off the clutch master cylinder -  the piston was stuck at the bottom. A fettle and a smack and it’s free and working. I’ve already ordered a new one - so I’ll wait until that comes and fit that.

alloy wheels will go into the aqua blast cabinet for a clean up. Interior looks tired - carpets shagged. Headlining hanging down.

lets see what this week brings as events unfold

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2 hours ago, silverfrost said:

blind purchase that ended up been a cracker, just shows that there are still some nice bargains still to be found in the classic car market :)

Really nice to see underneath and not have to play spot the rot   :thumbup:

Look forward to the progress on this one barry,   sand down those window frames and put a fresh coat of satin black,  some metal polish on the alloy trim, coat of wax on the body and i reckon you are good to go looking at the rest of it,   be kind to her and maybe treat her to a full stainless exhaust system !

Best not to use metal polish on the alloy trim - it's bright anodised and this will remove the protective coating. Best to use a non-abrasive wax based polish.

ATB Richard

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Thanks for posting the above Barry. A great read for Anoraks like me.

having given you all the good news about what this conversion brings, I should probably share the bad. That top link rear suspension system is said to be not quite right and produces some handling irregularities. An engineer owner who fitted it, reviewed why it wasn’t quite right and published his thoughts on the net (google lotus elite top link, and you might find his article). His thoughts were that the pivot point for the top link is in the wrong place and needed to be moved higher, as the current geometry isn’t quite right as the suspension compresses causing roll oversteer, making the rear end quite lively.

The standard car has quite a simple but effective arrangement in that a large bolt goes through the hub and locks the angle of the hub into a fixed arc. As the car corners, it effectively leans on its compressing outside suspension, which introduces negative camber as the suspension compresses, keeping the loaded tyre at the right  attitude vs the road - this is what brings its prodigious grip and handling magic.

the Donnington rear end is a lot more robust, but needs a bit more development. I think spyder realised the real money was in elan chassis’s rather than Elite’s and eclats which had entered bargain bucket territory in value, and quietly phased out offering elite and Eclat parts.

i have a set of Spyder tubular trailing arms as pictured in the brochure. I haven’t fitted them but they are very heavy duty compared to the stock lotus box section arms. Might pop them on my v8 and see if it helps any. Too heavy for the race car project i think.

i’d be really interested in this car when it’s up and running. Would love to try it in comparison to my Eclat S2.

Dunc

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Hello Barry,

The clutch master cylinder in you previous post may work (a has been said before on here it is just hydraulics) but the correct part numbers are Part numbers are:
Master Cylinder - MC1602BE
Slave Cylinder - WC1600BE

You won't find them as they are long obsolete

However my research came upon this https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts/aisin/8162205 which is the nearest I coulod find to the original. It has all the same dimensions and should fit straight in

 

Brian

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31 minutes ago, Dunc said:

Thanks for posting the above Barry. A great read for Anoraks like me.

having given you all the good news about what this conversion brings, I should probably share the bad. That top link rear suspension system is said to be not quite right and produces some handling irregularities. An engineer owner who fitted it, reviewed why it wasn’t quite right and published his thoughts on the net (google lotus elite top link, and you might find his article). His thoughts were that the pivot point for the top link is in the wrong place and needed to be moved higher, as the current geometry isn’t quite right as the suspension compresses causing roll oversteer, making the rear end quite lively.

The standard car has quite a simple but effective arrangement in that a large bolt goes through the hub and locks the angle of the hub into a fixed arc. As the car corners, it effectively leans on its compressing outside suspension, which introduces negative camber as the suspension compresses, keeping the loaded tyre at the right  attitude vs the road - this is what brings its prodigious grip and handling magic.

the Donnington rear end is a lot more robust, but needs a bit more development. I think spyder realised the real money was in elan chassis’s rather than Elite’s and eclats which had entered bargain bucket territory in value, and quietly phased out offering elite and Eclat parts.

i have a set of Spyder tubular trailing arms as pictured in the brochure. I haven’t fitted them but they are very heavy duty compared to the stock lotus box section arms. Might pop them on my v8 and see if it helps any. Too heavy for the race car project i think.

i’d be really interested in this car when it’s up and running. Would love to try it in comparison to my Eclat S2.

Dunc

Yes, I remember reading this about the Spyder conversion, but have no way of knowing if it is a valid point.

I think Mike Kimberley (who was responsible for the engineering of the Elite) will be on the lotusexcel.net stand at the NEC on the Saturday next month. No doubt he will have a view! I believe he had a long running battle with ACBC over the stresses on the driveshaft in the rear suspension design, and eventually won - hence the adoption of the top link on the Esprit and the Eclat Excel.

Richard

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@Dunc only time will tell. For fast I’ve got the Esprit - this is just for comfort. At least it’s not sat on a rotten chassis. 

@Grizzly I’m sure it’s a gmc1007c - Its the same as is on an mgb in the shed next door 

@rjwooll mjk will know plenty about it I’m sure.

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Deadly! These things are the next hot model I reckon, never knew Spyder did a chassis for them. Well wear pal. 

Those openings for the inboard discs look a little suspect though, know what the story is there?

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It’s been ran up the road. Feels like the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off. New wheel bearing required. Anyone know what they are ?

exhaust rubbers fell apart and exhaust is now rubbing on the rear driveshafts - so need some new ones. Then just about every light bulb either doesn’t work or behaves randomly - so need to look at contacts and earths.

anyone got a diagram of what switches do what?

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You might want an electrician for that! Lol. I don't have a diagram of what the switches do or layout but have attached a wiring diagram which is hopefully the right one for a standard Elite

 

hope this is of use

regards Dan

 

image.jpg

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Thankyou @eclat22 that’s great. I’m sure some of it will be the rusty fuse holders and lamp holders that will need addressing 

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Sneaked past the farm on the way home.

cleaned up all the fuses - most lights and stuff now works - just one funny is that the one rear light remains on no matter what and the other side doesn’t work. Will strip both sides off and re-terminate. 

Electric windows - lots of Wd40 in the channels - they now go up and down - albeit slowly - door cards need to come off and a good grease up of the mechanism is in order.

The suspect wheel bearing isn’t - both inner joints on the steering rack were in need of tightening up. Trunions filled with grease.

new plugs, oil, filter, exhaust rubbers and coolant ordered. 

Maybe mot Saturday 

 

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Hi Barry did you say trunnions are filled with grease? If so I'd recommend cleaning them out and filling with ep90 gear oil. The grease has a habit of congealing and not lubricating properly. I believe this to be the current recommend method

regards Dan

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Yep @eclat22 - grease gun whacked on the nipples and filled until it spilled out clean. Flushed out some horribleness that’s for sure.

@mikeeech - no silicone spray up the farm - I’ll strip the door cards off and give it the white grease and silicone spray treatment next time. I’m just happier to see that the windows will go up and down.

new spade type fusebox ordered - I will swap that over

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47 minutes ago, eclat22 said:

Hi Barry did you say trunnions are filled with grease? If so I'd recommend cleaning them out and filling with ep90 gear oil. The grease has a habit of congealing and not lubricating properly. I believe this to be the current recommend method

regards Dan

 

Have a read of this. tells you how to lubricate yer trunnions.

http://www.tccv.net/hints/OilTrunnions.pdf

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