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550superfast

Clutch Master Cylinder

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Stock is due in at Lotus on the 3rd Dec. Silverstone hold quite a few items however, might be worth giving them a call if you haven't already. 

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6 hours ago, Bibs said:

Stock is due in at Lotus on the 3rd Dec. Silverstone hold quite a few items however, might be worth giving them a call if you haven't already. 

Thanks, no joy at Silverstone.

 

5 hours ago, GFWilliams said:

Might be worth a call to Komo-tec:)

Nor from Daniel.

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On 15/11/2018 at 11:11, 550superfast said:

Where can I get one? I've tried about and no joy. Any ideas? HELP please.

Did your master cylinder fail or is it not working properly?

BOE fabrication sell an aftermarked version for the evora but they don t know if it would fit an exige v6

 

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On 15/11/2018 at 10:16, Bibs said:

Stock is due in at Lotus on the 3rd Dec. Silverstone hold quite a few items however, might be worth giving them a call if you haven't already. 

@Bibs Are you able to check if Lotus have this part yet? Many thanks - I appreciate you help.

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9 hours ago, 550superfast said:

@Bibs Are you able to check if Lotus have this part yet? Many thanks - I appreciate you help.

Collecting parts from Lotus tomorry Gary will ask whilst I'm there for you...

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Anyone got the service notes for fitting the clutch master cylinder? Or can anyone offer any advise on the procedure? Thanks.

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From the manual, but I'm sure there is a quicker way as there always seems to be, hopefully without removing the clam

 

Master Cylinder

The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the pedal box. The cylinder is not equipped with its own fluid reservoir, but instead is linked via hose to the adjacent brake fluid reservoir.

An adaptor is screwed onto the end of metal clutch pipe allow fitment onto the plastic master cylinders 'quick fit' outlet pipe connection. There is no provision for any servicing of the master cylinder, and if found to be faulty, the unit should be replaced.

Removal:

1. Remove the front clamshell (see sub-section BT.6). and remove the RH or LH radiator upper outlet duct as required to gain access to the clutch master cylinder.

2. Clean the master cylinder and surrounding area with methylated spirit. Do not use petrol or paraffin. Note: Take all necessary precautions to guard against contamination of painted surfaces with brake fluid.

3. Disconnect and immediately plug and cap the hose connection to the fluid reservoir. Release the output pipe connection by gently pushing 4. the outlet pipe adaptor into the master cylinder and then pushing in the sprung loaded retaining clip on the end of the hose connection to release the pipe/ adaptor from the cylinder.

6. From inside the footwell, remove the clutch potentiometer; refer to subsection QA.5 for further information. 

7. Release the spring clip securing the clevis pin connecting the master cylinder pushrod/yoke to the clutch pedal and withdraw the pin. Remove the M8 x 25 bolts (2) securing the cylinder to the pedal box and withdraw

7. the cylinder from the pedal box.

Refitment:

Is the reverse of the removal procedure.

- Refit the pedal box fixings and torque to 25 Nm.

- Renew the Oetiker clip securing the reservoir hose to master cylinder then refit the hose onto the master cylinder inlet port THE HOSE SHOULD BE PUSHED ONTO THE PORT DRY - DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICALS OR LUBRICANTS TO AID FITMENT AS THIS COULD CAUSE FLUID CONTAMINATION WHICH MAY RESULT IN AN INAFFECTIVE CLUTCH PEDAL.

- Refit the outlet pipe adaptor onto the clutch master cylinders 'quick fit' connection.

- Bleed the hydraulic system of air, refer to sub-section QA.4 for further information.

 

Clutch Bleed:

If the clutch fluid is to be renewed, or an hydraulic component replaced, the system should • be bled of air using the following procedure:

• Remove the rear undertray - see service notes section AN.2 for further information.

• Using only a fresh supply of DOT 4 non-mineral type brake fluid, top up the brake/clutch reservoir as necessary

- also see service notes section JM.3 for further information.

• If the reservoir needs topping up, first clean around the cap to reduce the possibility of contamination before unscrewing the cap; it is not necessary to disconnect the level sensor cables. Take suitable precautions to guard against damage to paintwork caused by brake fluid dripping from the level sensor.

• From underneath the engine bay, fit a suitable bleed tube and container to the slave cylinders bleed nipple then open the nipple.

• Using conventional manual techniques, or low air pressure applied to the reservoir, bleed the system from slave cylinder bleed nipple in turn until no air bubbles can be seen then tighten the bleed nipple to 5 Nm.

• Test the operation of the clutch pedal, if the pedal operation is spongy repeat the process until an acceptable pedal action is obtained,

• Top up the fluid level in the reservoir (but do not overfill) then replace the filler cap securely.

• Refit the undertray

 

CLUTCH POTENTIOMETER

Clutch pedal travel is monitored by the potentiometer module. The module comprises of a pronged arm which rotates around the main body of the potentiometer body which is fixed in place to the pedal box.

The potentiometer bodies relative position on the pedal box is set by an integral locating pin and is further retained in position with an M4 bolt tightened to 4Nm.

The potentiometer arm is held in its relative position to the potentiometer body and clutch pedal by the master cylinder clevis pin.

Movement of clutch pedal rotates the arm relative to the position of the potentiometer body. 

Data on clutch pedal position is used by the engine management system for:

- Cruise Control operation

- Gearchange fuel cut off (To assist rapid smooth gearchanges).

- Start inhibit function on specific market vehicles.

Please see Service Notes Section EMQ for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) associated with the clutch potentiometer.

Please Note: If Cruise Control is disabled without driver intervention but the service light has not been illuminated check that the potentiometer is secure to the pedal box bracket.

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One line is different to the manual I have :( and that's line No.1

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54 minutes ago, Mark030358 said:

One line is different to the manual I have :( and that's line No.1

Ah I took it from the v6 manual, so maybe it change with the 350/380 or it might have improved so you don't have to take off the clam 😁

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No, its for a 350, certain. Must be a later version as mine are a couple of years old.

cheers

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