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1997 Esprit V8 rebuild - remortgage needed


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I'm changing the plugs on the car but that's mainly because I'm replacing a chunk of the fan wiring loom because it's been badly butchered by a previous owner.

The plugs on the Spal are a lot more common and easy to get than those on the OE fans too, which was another reason to swap them on the car.

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Little parcel from JAE today.  They have been really good to deal with and hopefully next week I can pick up the liners from Westwood and the engine build can commence.   have just dropped t

Turbos refurbished and ready to go.  Actuators were kept as they were as they were working fine.  

Ready for collection tomorrow

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  • 4 weeks later...

hello, I know all about what your saying, even Alex had a similar story to tell, ok I've been building cars are my life.(long life) One does need to understand how these fantastic flat plane engines work.

My own Esprit story started with a 97 (98) year car.....now a Sport 350.... Six Speed gearbox.    Just wanted to say, in the end you will love the car, the photo looks fab. ps done roughly 60k miles in these fab V8's all together, Super Unleaded.

Jay from JAE is a great bloke and very very helpful, dealt with him since around 2005/6.. they have custom parts you can't buy now.

Lastly I don't get on the forum very often, although I was in at the start before Bibs went on to grow to all things Lotus .regards Rob

[email protected] or 07976 609881

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  • Gold FFM

Thanks for the words of encouragement Rob

things are hopefully getting there slowly.  suspension is now getting put back together and hopefully shocks will be here on Monday.

considering how hard the split bush was to remove the new ones went in perfect

even after cleaning you can see the aluminium oxide that’s built up in the hole hence destroying 3 of them getting them out.  Have new ones from SJ and just need to clean the holes out 

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Hi @Mightymetro everything has scrubbed up beautifully, I am green with envy now looking at all those better than new items, I guess I'll have to get my finger out. Not long now and it will be back on the road, awesome work. 🙂

cheers

-Chris

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  • 2 months later...
  • Gold FFM

I do find it easier to bolt the gearbox and engine mounts onto the gearbox and engine for plonking into the car

Do post up part numbers of the track rod ends 👍

Only here once

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  • Gold FFM
12 minutes ago, Mightymetro said:

12mm bolts whereas I’m using the 7/16” standard bolts that are loose in the bush tube but that’s how they go.  Guess they rely on the force of compression once tightened not to move

That’s wrong chap. Early units were the 7/16” ones - later they went to 12mm.

you need to get the trailing arms drilled out to 12mm or change the bushes. Don’t leave the play - it won’t be acceptable to rely on the compression force and you risk the back end going very wayward.

all else looks great - sneaky use of different shimming washers in the front tops. I bet you can’t wait for that engine to return from the master engine builder 👍

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Only here once

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I had a similar issue with the gearbox drain plug. Drilled it out, and collapsed the remainder with an air saw and a drift. It's in my refurb thread somewhere.

 

Margate Exotics.

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  • Gold FFM
2 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

That’s wrong chap. Early units were the 7/16” ones - later they went to 12mm.

you need to get the trailing arms drilled out to 12mm or change the bushes. Don’t leave the play - it won’t be acceptable to rely on the compression force and you risk the back end going very wayward.

all else looks great - sneaky use of different shimming washers in the front tops. I bet you can’t wait for that engine to return from the master engine builder 👍

There is only 1 part number for the trailing arm bushes and that is with the 12mm insert.  When I asked the question no one said any different So assumed they were just bolt on...........

 

don’t tell me they have to come off 🙈🙈🙈🙈🙈

im guessing its a drilled 12mm rather than a reamed 12mm hole?

 

with the shims I just put some washers in there while the old shims were in the citric acid.  All out now and back on the car awaiting geo set up 

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Sorry I’d missed that post. Yes to change to polys on mine I needed the rear arms drilled out. Local machine shop did mine for almost nothing - they do have to be perfectly central 

Polys as I understand it are only 12mm the older rubber ones are the 7/16

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I am not sure that you need to modify the 'C' level radius arms when using the Lotac polyurethane mounting bush. I say this because I have a recollection that the original Metalastic A046D6000F rubber mounting bush had a 1/2" bore. But as I might be wrong has any one got one handy that they can measure?

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  • Gold FFM

They did seem quite loose in the mounts I took out.  I’ll see if I have them still but I might have thrown them.  I would have thought it would have listed the new bolt with them as a kit.  Grrrr

 

any help appreciated

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  • Gold FFM

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I couldn’t recommend borrowing an engine hoist like this enough 👍

Only here once

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My dear old Mum said its not the length, its the width you have to worry about. You seem to have that very problem. Shame the weather has broke or it could have all been done outside.

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  • Gold FFM
On 26/04/2020 at 12:42, sailorbob said:

I am not sure that you need to modify the 'C' level radius arms when using the Lotac polyurethane mounting bush. I say this because I have a recollection that the original Metalastic A046D6000F rubber mounting bush had a 1/2" bore. But as I might be wrong has any one got one handy that they can measure?

SailerBob, you are correct, it was a 12.2 bore in the original one.  
 

spoke to PNM today and they advised to stick to the current set up rather than modify the radius arm

 

im just trying to understand the reasoning for and against.  I guess if it’s too snug a fitting it could end up seizing in the bush itself and stop the radius arm lifting and dropping but surely that is the point.

 

 

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Today I had a final check of the front suspension and also fitted the brand new ABS sensors.  The old shims were corroded and after soaking in citric acid there wasn’t a lot left.  I fitted them but the gap between the ABS sensor and the pick ups was only 0.5mm and I think 0.6 is the minimum.  I ordered some 1mm spacer rings and fitted them so they are now 1.1mm away and within spec 

 

also refitted the rear brake lines and bled the brakes out using a Clarke pump up pressure bleeder.  Considering the brakes were off the car for 3 months and no fluid left in the system they bled out well within 3 rounds and pedal feels ok for now so I can move the car and then get it back in the garage once the engine arrives.  My drive is on a slip and didn’t wasn’t to push it out the garage and not be able to stop it 🙈🙈

 

 

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  • Gold FFM

Couple of photos of the new oil cooler pipes and the ARB.

 

this is the bleeder I was talking about above 👍🏻.  Really happy with it at the moment but will let you know once the cars going through the neighbours fence !!!!

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No slop should be there on the arb middle bushings. It seems you need a pair of SJ's purble ones, possibly.

Kind regards,

jacques

Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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